by Norman Hunter
Cruising the Caribbean, as we did for two years in our own boat, may sound the idyllic way to adventure-sail, but the seas, lochs and canals in and around Scotland offer not only good opportunities to ‘get afloat’ but are amongst the most scenic waters anywhere in the world. There is none more spectacular than the Caledonian Canal, part of the Great Glen running south west to north east and including the amazing and spectacular Loch Ness.
Neptune’s Staircase – an impressive series of locks on the Caledonian Canal
European Waterways operate the mighty Scottish Highlander, a 117ft long barge which was once a grain carrier, on the canal. This superb craft was beautifully converted 12 years ago into a luxurious, cruising ‘hotel’, equipped to the highest standard and can cater for up to eight guests.
Our six day adventure was to experience Scotland’s history, its dramatic landscapes and, as it turned out, some of the best Scottish food and true Highland hospitality.
The Scottish Highlander leaves from either the Inverness end of Loch Ness or at Banavie near Fort William. Following a champagne welcome, we were shown to our double en suit cabin. The voyage ahead included ancient castles, heather-clad hillsides and through a series of locks on the Caledonian Canal system before entering the magnificent waters of Loch Ness.
Leaving the Caledonian Canal and heading out into Loch Lochy
There’s an atmosphere of typical Scottish country house onboard the barge. The décor of the main salon and in the four luxurious en suite cabins – all named after Scottish clans – was impressive. We had our own masterful and personal chef, devoted hostess, obligatory ‘captain’ and an on-board tour guide who ensured we learned all there was to know about this impressive part of Scotland and its history. Our time aboard Scottish Highlander was to be both a cultural and culinary experience not to be missed.
After a visit to Glencoe – site of the infamous massacre of the Macdonald clan in 1692 – and the shore of Glen Finan where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed in 1745, we headed through a series of locks towards Loch Lochy but not before a visit to the WWII Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge and a gondola rise up the picturesque, snow-topped Aonach Mor mountain.
Eilean Donan Castle
Day three saw us visit the magical Eileen Donan castle – the setting of the film ‘Highlander’ – and moor up overnight by the locks at Fort Augusta. Here we dined royally at the Lovat Hotel a truly memorable feast only bettered by the fabulous menus provided by our own on-board chef Peter Norrie. His cooking was both exciting and innovative throughout the trip, much to the delight of our fellow (American) passengers. They, like we fell in love with a succession of superb lunches, dinners and full Scottish breakfasts complimented by freshly made porridge, creamed scramble eggs and smoked salmon.
We made an early departure the following morning and head out into Loch Ness, breakfasting as we cruised the placid waters of the mystical (monster) loch. Skipper Dan Clark slowed the mighty Highlander so that no photo opportunity would be missed. The historic Urquhart Castle – it dates back to the 6th Century and St Columba and which we had visited the day before – appeared through the morning mist. It is located near the village of Drumnadrochit on the A82 and has a marvelous visitors’ centre.
Towards the middle of the 23-mile loch – its waters darkened by the abundance of peat below – in brilliant Spring sunshine, the full scenic grandeur of this most famous part of Scotland was revealed.
Urquhart Castle near Drumnadrochit
Mooring in Dochgarroch at the northern end of Loch Ness for our final night’s stay, we were taken on our last two on-shore trips – this time to the beautiful Glen Ord Distillery just north of Inverness and to the haunting fields of Culloden Moor, the site of the last battle fought on British soil (1746) where the Scots Jacobite army under Bonnie Prince Charlie was severely routed by the Government forces (many of whom were Scots!)
We walked the battlefield listening to a detailed commentary on our modern, mobile, satellite-prompted recorders to how the massacre unfolded. A strange feeling sometimes experienced, especially by Scots, of what took place that day gripped us as we walked!
Our final dinner, hosted on board by Captain Dan, was a masterpiece of Scottish cuisine with Haggis Neeps and Tatties followed by tender Buccleuch beef with the obligatory whisky sauce.
We were all loathed to leave the Scottish Highlander after our six day trip, but vowed to return.
Without question European Waterways, the tour operators, offer a truly memorable experience here in the heart of the Scottish Highlands and on other similar barges across France.
A nice touch…unlike conventional cruise packages, all our on-shore trips to castles, battlefields and visitor centers were in the cost of our holiday. The all-inclusive trip included all food, wines, alcoholic, soft drinks, site entry fees and luxury mini-bus transport to all locations.
Fact File
European Waterways
Contact: 01753 598550
Email: sales@gobarging.com
www.gobarging.com
Scottish Highlander
Length 117ft
Beam 16ft
Power: 127 hp Gardner engine
Four luxury cabins.